Zanzibar — officially an archipelago that includes the main island, Unguja, as well as Pemba to the north-east — has it all: white-sand beaches fringed by palms and turquoise seas full of fish; an interior planted with exotic spices and inhabited by curious-looking monkeys; an atmospheric old town and a vibrant cultural present. There are a number of serious environmental and social challenges, but many places to stay are taking their responsibilities seriously, trying to ensure tourism is a force for good, both in terms of protecting the natural environment and supporting the local communities.